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View Full Version : Throttles: Potentiometer versus Hall Effect



frodus
17 May 2011, 1308
So, I'm getting closer to hooking things up for testing, and I wondered what people have used.

I know that the popular solution is the Magura throttle. I don't really like the throttle actually, it seems to have a week spring (although you can wind the spring one more turn internally). It seems like it's a bit cheap, and it actually hits my handlebar controls. My bigger issue is that it is not sealed, and in Portland, rain is an issue, especially since it's exposed.

So I have a PB6 lookalike, and the potentiometer inside is NOT 0-5k 3 wire. I think I can calibrate it internally on the Curtis, but I'm not sure I want to use a resistive throttle for permanent use.

So I was looking around and people like Evnetics have a nice pot that is made for Throttle Position measurement in vehicles, and have adapted it for use in an EV. Then I started looking around and found a couple different hall effect drop-in replacements for a normal 16mm shaft potentiometer.

http://octopart.com/981he2b1wa1f16-vishay-10570075
and
http://octopart.com/351he0b4wa1s22-vishay-7767922

So I was thinking about using the potbox, but replacing the pot with a Hall effect.

So is everyone using a Magura?

jpanichella
17 May 2011, 1314
I understand your dislike for the magura, at 50 dollars a piece I expected them to be a bit nicer. When I got mine it felt kind of cheap.

DaveAK
17 May 2011, 1315
I'm using a PB6 type pot box and the existing throttle cable. It's mounted fully exposed to the elements as well. :D I'll cover it eventually. Mine has two ranges 0-5K ish and 5ish - 11ish, but of course I just use the lower range. It has two sets of two wires and a handy microswitch which I use for the regen. I think it's from an EZ-GO golf cart?

Anyway, you didn't want to hear any of that, but I'm interested in your idea to replace the pot with a hall effect.

DRZ400
17 May 2011, 1329
I just bought a 5k pot from Radio Shack for $3, made a lever from alu bar stock and connected the stock pull - pull cables to opposite ends. Retains the stock look.

billmi
17 May 2011, 1331
I'm running a Magura as well, and similarly was disappointed with the feel of the throttle compared to the price.

electriKAT
17 May 2011, 1338
I'm using a pot box and existing throttle cable as well. The pot box is not as exposed to the elements, and it allowed me to keep the stock look, and right hand control module. I am sure all of the others you mention would be better, but this was about $15 and a homemade bracket. So far I have not had any issues with it. But those Hall Effect sensors are not expensive; you might as well go for it.

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 1347
I have the Magura 0-5k. It's not the best made component, but it's been fine for me. I actually like the light spring. Very smooth response with my Alltrax.

It did interfere with my right hand controls - I cut a section out of the control housing that let the Magura fit inside it.

Why do you want to go with Hall effect instead of 0-5k pot? Are they less reliable (assuming they're sealed)?

DaveAK
17 May 2011, 1357
Why do you want to go with Hall effect instead of 0-5k pot? Are they less reliable (assuming they're sealed)?
Yeah, I got to say that my pot seems just fine, apart from some mechanical adjustment I need to make. The only reason I would consider changing is if it does suffer from environmental damage in any way. But that's yet to be seen.

frodus
17 May 2011, 1400
Ok, so a mix of people using a potbox (or something like it) and the magura. Well, they're about $45 for one like I linked to.... so not exactly cheap, but cheap enough to try out at least. I know they'll work, so it's not a loss.

The potbox I've got doesn't have a 5K pot in it, its got some weird wiring and a much larger resistance 360degree pot, but that's ok because I can configure the curtis for 0-5V throttle with 3 wires.

But here's another thing I learned..... the Curtis 1238 is programmed with an analog brake input. It's not just ON/OFF, it's variable. So I can actually apply a variable brake (configurable for 2wire, 3wire, hall), so I might play with that some as well.

frodus
17 May 2011, 1402
Why do you want to go with Hall effect instead of 0-5k pot? Are they less reliable (assuming they're sealed)?

magura's are not sealed, neither are any other one's I've seen. They're mechanical, and they can wear out and get dirty. Hall effect's don't do that and have a much smoother curve.

ZoomSmith
17 May 2011, 1410
I have the Magura, and also agree: piece of junk, but does the job. I hate routing mechanical cables more, so I'm keeping the Magura.

jpanichella
17 May 2011, 1417
Ok, so a mix of people using a potbox (or something like it) and the magura. Well, they're about $45 for one like I linked to.... so not exactly cheap, but cheap enough to try out at least. I know they'll work, so it's not a loss.

The potbox I've got doesn't have a 5K pot in it, its got some weird wiring and a much larger resistance 360degree pot, but that's ok because I can configure the curtis for 0-5V throttle with 3 wires.

But here's another thing I learned..... the Curtis 1238 is programmed with an analog brake input. It's not just ON/OFF, it's variable. So I can actually apply a variable brake (configurable for 2wire, 3wire, hall), so I might play with that some as well.

My sigmadrive has a similar input for braking, which is why I bought two throttles. How do you plan on interfacing this with the rider? I was considering having two throttles, but perhaps having a NO push button wired in and mounted to my throttle. So I'd have to push a button, while twisting the throttle to apply the analog braking.

frodus
17 May 2011, 1426
Well, I was thinking I could actually use a cheap cable brake on the left handlebar where the clutch was, so I can just kick it in independantly of the footbrake and throttle.

jpanichella
17 May 2011, 1432
Yeah, that works too. :D

frodus
17 May 2011, 1442
or I actually still have my "choke" cable, so I could springload that if I wanted, a little hard to reach though. But at that point, I could have the foot brake actuate a relay that triggers the lights, as well as closes the circuit so the brake pot engages at "xx" percent..... so I can adjust rejen on the fly.... that'd be kinda sick.

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 1450
Is your existing clutch lever cable actuated? That seems like the safest option, run to a pot box. If you are twisting the throttle to adjust regen, then your right hand is occupied and not on the front brake lever where it should be.

I definitely agree that adjustable regen is the way to go. You really don't want rear wheel braking that's unpredictable, especially if it's wet.

electriKAT
17 May 2011, 1452
I don't know if there is any way to build this without a LOT of work, but the Vectrix has a throttle that will roll clockwise, beyond the zero point, to engage regen. It is so intuitive, it's the best implementation of regen I've ever seen. It would require two cables and opposing springs to hold the throttle in the neutral point. But it might be done.

jpanichella
17 May 2011, 1459
I don't know if there is any way to build this without a LOT of work, but the Vectrix has a throttle that will roll clockwise, beyond the zero point, to engage regen. It is so intuitive, it's the best implementation of regen I've ever seen. It would require two cables and opposing springs to hold the throttle in the neutral point. But it might be done.

I like this idea a lot

frodus
17 May 2011, 1508
Is your existing clutch lever cable actuated? That seems like the safest option, run to a pot box. If you are twisting the throttle to adjust regen, then your right hand is occupied and not on the front brake lever where it should be.

I definitely agree that adjustable regen is the way to go. You really don't want rear wheel braking that's unpredictable, especially if it's wet.

huh?
Clutch and my choke are on the left side, the ONLY thing on the right side is throttle and the original hydraulic front master cylinder. That is for throttle only, not gonna try and mix the two. Two completely separate systems.

I was just thinking how I could actuate the brake, either through a handbrake on the left, via the choke and a brake switch.... or only through the rear brake. I wonder if they have 0-5V banjo bolt.....

DaveAK
17 May 2011, 1509
Personally my opinion, based on my very limited experience of regen, is that making it variable would add unnecessary complication. While I imagine overly aggressive regen could cause concern it should be set up correctly in the controller to start with. I haven't played with the settings on mine yet, but it's quite comfortable and feels much like I would expect engine braking to feel. I don't find it at all unpredictable but in fact quite the opposite.

My plan is to have the clutch lever interrupt regen to allow me to coast, just like pulling in the clutch would do. My intention is to have regen braking take the place of engine braking, and the conventional brakes do the same work as they were designed for.

billmi
17 May 2011, 1529
That's the approach I'd been thinking of as well, Dave - automatic regen that's interrupted by a clutch handle. The more I've been riding though, I think I'd be grabbing that clutch way too often to coast, so I'm leaning now more towards activation of regen by the rear brake pedal before the pads grab. I want to keep the operation the same as on a gas bike, to avoid conflicting muscle-memory when switching between bikes. Either way I go, I expect I'll be mounting a potentiometer with a knob somewhere up on the fairing below the handlebars, where I can easily get to it to adjust regen strength, and dial in the responsiveness that I want, but not while braking.

DaveAK
17 May 2011, 1534
Yeah, it's all about personal preference, but I think variable regen would blow my tiny little mind. :D First impression is that the regen setting in my controller seems just about right, but as I get more comfortable I might try some different values.

frodus
17 May 2011, 1539
I'll start with ON/OFF regen for now I think, move to adjustable (choke) but brake-actuated regen later, then maybe set up a cheap clutch lever to try it out.

But lets keep this on topic guys, its not about regen, its about what you tie into

Pot or Hall effect, and handlebar mounted, or potbox style.... or something new we haven't thought about....

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 1541
huh?
Clutch and my choke are on the left side, the ONLY thing on the right side is throttle and the original hydraulic front master cylinder. That is for throttle only, not gonna try and mix the two. Two completely separate systems.

I was just thinking how I could actuate the brake, either through a handbrake on the left, via the choke and a brake switch.... or only through the rear brake. I wonder if they have 0-5V banjo bolt.....

got it. I got what you were saying mixed up with an idea I'd read somewhere else, where the throttle turns into the regen pot when the brakes are on. Sorry 'bout that.

On the same note, while I think the Vectrix "twist forward for regen" is intuitive, it sounds like a bad idea from a safety point of view. I don't like the idea of developing a habit of braking that doesn't involve my right hand always on the front brake.

DaveAK
17 May 2011, 1545
Pot or Hall effect, and handlebar mounted, or potbox style.... or something new we haven't thought about....
Well, if we're talking about something new, and sticking with braking, (which is off topic I know), then I think something that measures just how tight your arse cheeks are gripping the seat and translates that to braking effort for those "Oh $hit!!!" emergency situations would be something to consider. :D

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 1547
I like my Magura just fine. 900 mi on the bike so far and zero issues (although I haven't ridden it in the rain). The quality is on par with the rest of the original controlls from my GSX-R.

billmi
17 May 2011, 1556
Ior something new we haven't thought about....

Helmet mounted RF proximity sensor, so the closer you tuck down to your tank, the faster you go - yeah, that's the ticket!

Going old-school, back in the 70s, there was a product called an "Optigon". It looked like a small organ, and played like a modern electronic keyboard (it played back sampled sound). Each track on the disk was recorded optically like the soundtrack on a motion picture, and was read by an optical sensor, then fed out as sound if the corresponding key was pressed. Swap disks and you were playing a whole new instrument. Anyhow, the volume control was also optical, it consisted of a sheet of film with slots of varying size printed in it. Press on the volume pedal, and it slid past the optical sensor to a position with larger slots, so it let in more light, increasing the volume. It was pretty simple, and pretty foolproof. Granted dust could affect it, but it cleaned easily, and the wear was on the edges, out of the path of the light - so at least in theory it's not as prone to wear issues as the wiper and contact surface in a traditional thin film pot. I've always thought it to be an interesting alternative to potentiometers for analog signal adjustment.

frodus
17 May 2011, 1605
or a helmet mounted mic, and an embedded processor to analyze the frequency of your voice as you immitate a normal ICE motorcycle.

"BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.......bRR RRRRRRRRR", as you hum higher, you go faster, hum lower, go slower. "Screeching sound", actuate regen, "oh $hit" activate brakes.

electriKAT
17 May 2011, 1616
You guys have been playing too much Xbox Kinect, or whatever that thing is called.

electriKAT
17 May 2011, 1626
On the same note, while I think the Vectrix "twist forward for regen" is intuitive, it sounds like a bad idea from a safety point of view. I don't like the idea of developing a habit of braking that doesn't involve my right hand always on the front brake.

Your right hand is always on the front brake. It's pretty easy to control the throttle and brake lever at the same time. That's something you do on any motorcycle. I don't mean to keep going on about this, but I was really blown away by how well it works. You have full control of throttle (go), regen, and both brakes without moving your hands from their normal position. And rolling the throttle backwards to engage regen just feels so natural. Whereas, pulling a clutch lever to engage regen would work, but it's as intuitive.

billmi
17 May 2011, 1634
or a helmet mounted mic, and an embedded processor to analyze the frequency of your voice as you immitate a normal ICE motorcycle.


"Sorry I'm late. I've got a sore throat and can't get over ten miles an hour."

GUFF
17 May 2011, 1704
I have a magura. I don't like it either, I think it is a cheap P.O.S. I would very interested in a better alternative. Something waterproof that accepts superbike grips would be just the ticket.

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 1707
If you already have the pot box and original cable throttle, I like the idea of replacing the pot with a Hall sensor.

I've seen throttles similar to Magura, but Hall effect, but quality also looks so-so.

http://www.jvbike.com/crystalyte.htm

http://www.cloudelectric.com/product_p/th-hall-tw.htm

Nuts & Volts
17 May 2011, 1756
If you already have the pot box and original cable throttle, I like the idea of replacing the pot with a Hall sensor.

I've seen throttles similar to Magura, but Hall effect, but quality also looks so-so.

http://www.jvbike.com/crystalyte.htm

http://www.cloudelectric.com/product_p/th-hall-tw.htm

I think those are the throttles I use for my ebike and my motorcycle. The pictures look like mine at least. I stole a full twist throttle off of an old electric scooter my grandpa had and it feels quite cheap, but dont have any issues with it. I use a half throttle for my ebike that I bought from ebikes.ca and I do like the feel of it. I also have a left hand half throttle that I plan to use for regen on my motorcycle, but I have hooked it up yet. So i guess all my throttles are hall-effect, but I have never paid attention to which one I programmed my kelly for.

Hall effect is 3-pin and resistive is 2-pin right?

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 1824
They both usually have 3 pins. You only need to use 2 of 3 for resistive, all 3 for Hall.

Fab man
17 May 2011, 1845
These guys: http://www.freeenergystore.com/evhubmotors.html have a patented Hall effect roll back regen/ throttle control. .

BaldBruce
17 May 2011, 1957
I use the Magura also. Only difference is I use two of them. Right hand throttle is for accelerating of course, while the left hand throttle controls regen. Just to state the obvious, because the Magura is mounted on the left, its actuation is forward to increase regen. I agree the Maguras are not the nicest feeling, but don't know of any better electric grip throttle. As Dave said, it's all about personal choice, but I like having no clutch lever at all, brake and accelerator on right hand and left hand for regen only as much as I desire...... (Or none at all if you don't want or need it for coasting or emergency situations.)

frodus
17 May 2011, 2138
The 3-wire resistive throttle setups aren't actually measuring resistance. They're putting 5V on one side of the pot, ground on the other, and as you vary the pot, it goes from 0-5V, so its a 0-5V pot. The Hall effect uses the same thing, 5V, and a signal output that varies from 0-5V.

I think I may just use the throttle assembly I got, but I need a pot that is lower in ohms, the one inside it is 30kohms. The Curtis manual says between 1-10Kohms. Any reason this wouldn't work ok?

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 2218
Assuming I'm interpreting your question right....

I just had a look at the Curtis manual. It does say 1-10k even in the case where the pot is essentially varying 0-5V. My guess is that it needs at least 0.5 mA (5V/10k ohm) to have a stable throttle response. It might work with 30k - in theory it should still vary from 0-5V, but they probably have a good reason to say 10k max.

Is the pot in the box a normal size that you could just replace? That seems like the best thing to do.

frodus
17 May 2011, 2237
yeah, i found one that should be a drop in replacement, but it's a 360degree turn. I think I can set the throttle max V in there, so it "tunes" it to react as if that "max" position on the throttle = 100% throttle.

Or I might just build my own, just need to find a throttle wheel, because I don't feel like making one. Something that can just pop onto the original.

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 2239
That actually made me think, if you could make the 30k pot only go 1/3 of the way, then it would be a 10k pot, right? That would just be a matter of adjusting where the cable attaches to it change the throw length.

Or just get a PB6 and be done with it.

frodus
17 May 2011, 2248
Well, kinda, I guess I could set it to a 2 wire throttle and try it. I was just asking to see what people are using, to see if there are other options. I think I'm gonna replace the throttle with a Hall once I get it on the road see how it goes..... stick with 2 wire for now.

The PB-6's are over $100, and wear out. Lots of car guys report they're pieces of crap and have a jerky start.

DaveAK
17 May 2011, 2259
My PB6 copy is only 2 wire. The Sevcon controller adjustment is done by setting a 0% throttle voltage and a 100% throttle voltage between 0 and 5V. I have my zero % set at 0V because I have some slack in the system that I need to sort out. It seems perfectly smooth though, I just need to remove the slack mechanically and then tweak the zero setting to be 0.2V or something appropriate.

As for wearing out - well mine has lasted two days so far. :p

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 2327
Hall sensor sounds ideal. I'd like to know about other options too - the Hall effect throttles that I linked to look pretty crappy.

So what we need is a Hall effect throttle built into the grip, waterproof, well made, and small enough body that it doesn't get in the way of controls. Project!

podolefsky
17 May 2011, 2332
Found this PB-6 size Hall effect box:

http://shop.transatlanticelectricconversions.com/PB6-Hall-Effect-Pot-Box-100pb6.htm

same thing on e-bay

http://cgi.ebay.com/Throttle-PB-6-Type-0-5V-Hall-Effect-Throttle-Box-/110658990971

magicsmoke
17 May 2011, 2341
Hall sensor sounds ideal. I'd like to know about other options too - the Hall effect throttles that I linked to look pretty crappy.

So what we need is a Hall effect throttle built into the grip, waterproof, well made, and small enough body that it doesn't get in the way of controls. Project!

Quantum Tunneling .. Even sounds cooler :)
http://www.msa.ac.uk/~fraser/wiringpg/files/integration-guide.pdf

http://www.peratech.com/

dice23
18 May 2011, 0648
i use a magura,and i have had my issues with the damn thing. all n all it is great,i changed the grip on mine and with bar ends it looks awesome. i keep a spare in the trailer just in case. we did discover that some will read over 5k and on the godzilla controller it was shutting it down. so a well placed screw to limit travel will fix that.i have tried to find a billet one and there just isnt anything out there?

frodus
18 May 2011, 0822
dice:
http://www.evsource.com/tls_throttle.php
and
http://rebirthauto.com/evneticsthrottlepot.aspx

Not cheap though.


Noah,
I don't know if replacing the entire throttle assembly is economic though, I mean, why replace what you already have. Couldn't you just use the original assembly, and cable going to a box?

Without molding capability or machining ability, isn't it easier to make a "potbox" and mount it remotely? I mean, yeah, we can talk all day about what we want, but if a manufacturer was going to build that for us, I'd expect them to charce an arm and a leg.

Thanks for the link to that hall effect PB6 copy, that's the cheapest I've seen one like that, i forget where I saw them available.

harlan
18 May 2011, 0839
I have a strong dislike for Maguras. They tend to fail prematurely. Wiper gets dirty and you get uneven throttle response. I had one experience where a magura had some sort of intermittent connection that let the controller and contactor engage and then the throttle would start engaging sporadically. Very dangerous.

I much prefer a drop in Hall Effect throttle replacement but unfortunately all that is available is the cheap chinese crap.

podolefsky
18 May 2011, 0848
Noah,
I don't know if replacing the entire throttle assembly is economic though, I mean, why replace what you already have. Couldn't you just use the original assembly, and cable going to a box?

Without molding capability or machining ability, isn't it easier to make a "potbox" and mount it remotely? I mean, yeah, we can talk all day about what we want, but if a manufacturer was going to build that for us, I'd expect them to charce an arm and a leg.

Thanks for the link to that hall effect PB6 copy, that's the cheapest I've seen one like that, i forget where I saw them available.

Yup - if you already have the original throttle, makes sense to go with the box.

I just like projects.

frodus
18 May 2011, 0857
even cheaper:
http://www.vendio.com/stores/sharon1934/item/car-electronics-other/throttle-pb-6-type-0-5v-hall-e/lid=10715145

magicsmoke
18 May 2011, 0928
Exactly the same as the ebay one. Even same pic and postage.

frodus
18 May 2011, 0946
oh, i can't see ebay at work....

frodus
18 May 2011, 1358
So at lunch I went down to Fry's electronics and got me a drop in replacement 10K linear potentiometer. It's single turn, so I'd just have to adjust the 100% setpoint on the Curtis controller, but that should do it for now.

I'd like to eventually make my own that houses 2 hall effect linear position sensors (basically a contactless 0-5V sensor), and outfit some normal throttle pullies to the shafts and put them on some sort of mount. Then I can do whatever I want with the clutch/choke/brake/etc.

At least this will get me running though.

ZoomSmith
18 May 2011, 1412
I've opened my Magura up to try and alleviate the mechanical sticking problem, and was surprised to see a a tiny potentiometer. I'm no EE but it looked like the radio shack variety component.

Is it feasible to use something more accurate, like a Non-contacting Absolute Encoder? I stumbled on this component, but I'm sure there are others: Bourns Magnetic Encoders (http://www.bourns.com/ProductLine.aspx?name=magnetic_encoders)

frodus
18 May 2011, 1416
absolute encoder gives a digital signal output, so you'd need something to convert that to your correct throttle input that your controller needs.

Hall effect is probably the way to go, but it should be a linear taper.

I haven't found any "small" hall effect's like the one inside the magura.

ZoomSmith
18 May 2011, 1603
absolute encoder gives a digital signal output, so you'd need something to convert that to your correct throttle input that your controller needs.


I assumed some kind of circuit would be required. Just kinda thinking, if a person was to build one from scratch, what's the most accurate & compact sensor.

harlan
18 May 2011, 1629
I converted my Magura to Hall Effect. I posted about it but don't remember if that was lost on ElMoto 1.0

Edit:
Here's a link to the post:
http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?490-Magura-throttle-hall-effect-mod&highlight=magura

podolefsky
18 May 2011, 2012
Cool, thanks Harlan. So did this make the throttle noticeably smoother or more responsive?

podolefsky
18 May 2011, 2048
I've opened my Magura up to try and alleviate the mechanical sticking problem

My Magura seemed to be sticking, and I figured out it was because I had pushed it to far onto the bar. The handlebar end was touching the inside of the rubber grip. I moved it out about 1mm and that fixed it.

Not saying that's what was wrong with yours, just that I thought I had a bad unit but it was just shoved on too far.

Fab man
18 May 2011, 2200
My Magura seemed to be sticking, and I figured out it was because I had pushed it to far onto the bar. The handlebar end was touching the inside of the rubber grip. I moved it out about 1mm and that fixed it.

Not saying that's what was wrong with yours, just that I thought I had a bad unit but it was just shoved on too far.

I've had good luck with cheap($8-12) scooter hall effect throttles like those from TNC scooters. They usually have a LED state of charge housing sticking out in the way. I usually cut the housing off and glue a piece of ABS pipe over the hole.

A half throttle, where only the inner portion rotates, seems to be a safer design sticking wise and if the handle bar end rubs against something.

ZoomSmith
19 May 2011, 0633
My Magura seemed to be sticking, and I figured out it was because I had pushed it to far onto the bar. The handlebar end was touching the inside of the rubber grip. I moved it out about 1mm and that fixed it.

Not saying that's what was wrong with yours, just that I thought I had a bad unit but it was just shoved on too far.

The sticking was prior to putting on the grip. Dimensional analysis determined the clamping geometry is not axially aligned with the throttle cylinder support. Could be poor design or just badly executed/modified mold.

ZoomSmith
19 May 2011, 0639
I converted my Magura to Hall Effect. I posted about it but don't remember if that was lost on ElMoto 1.0

Edit:
Here's a link to the post:
http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?490-Magura-throttle-hall-effect-mod&highlight=magura

Wow Harlan, don't know how I missed that. Nice work.

harlan
19 May 2011, 1004
Cool, thanks Harlan. So did this make the throttle noticeably smoother or more responsive?

Throttle response with the Hall Effect throttle is MUCH smoother. Magura + Alltrax = very poor throttle response. I have a custom throttle profile from Alltrax to help that but its still rough.

frodus
20 May 2011, 1411
can someone get me the model number/manufacturer of the pot on a magura?

and rough dimensions if they can, including the shaft diameter.

podolefsky
21 May 2011, 1339
Just went out for a ride and really paid attention to throttle response. I have an Alltrax 7245, series motor, Magura 0-5k. The controller is set to "progressive" throttle curve, with all the settings maxed out (including throttle up/down times).

Response is totally smooth, low speed control is great and holding speed is fine with no jumpiness.

The bike has 900 mi since conversion, has never seen rain. Maybe I just lucked out and got a controller/throttle that like each other?