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Thread: KZ440 LTD Conversion

              
   
   
  1. #11
    teddillard
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    That looks awesome! My first mount with the VF500F was 1/4 steel, and very similar to that... the latest one is aluminum (the one from Gotham Machine) and it is solid as a rock with the ME1003. No need for any additional blocking, IMO.

    I did add a brace to counter the pull of the sprocket back towards the rear wheel, which it looks like will be taken care of by that forward mount you've added. I think you're spot on.

    Here it is:



    So, we need to add a new fabrication method. WAD.
    Last edited by teddillard; 19 February 2012 at 0406.

  2. #12
    EV Enthusiast BenNelson's Avatar
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    Ooo! I like teddillard's mounting plate. Side brace is an interesting idea. Mine just used two threaded rods across the back and then an angle bracket on the front-bottom.

    I don't think weight of the motor hanging off the plate is a problem at all. If they needed back-end support, they would have added mounting bolt holes on the back as well.

  3. #13
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    The mount itself does not need to be super beefy if you add some triangulation like Ted uses or a forward mounting point. Its fairly common for people (and companies) to way over build. In Teds case we pushed the lightness a little farther than we might have for a production part because Ted is building an ultra light experimental bike but you would be surprised how little material you need to hold something in place if it is supported well.

  4. #14
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    Great! How thick was that plate when you started? I always overbuild mechanical. I've worked on Crabbers, Containerships and Rail on the road to embedded electronics, where things are built pretty solid. This is not always an asset but things rarely break.

    Steve

  5. #15
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    The mount started as .375" plate. The pockets are .25" deep.

    If I worked on machines that took the abuse trains and container ship do I would over build too!

  6. #16
    Senior Member DRZ400's Avatar
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    it puts out 6.1 amp during bulk phase

    Quote Originally Posted by Skahle View Post
    Hi Ben,

    Nice looking bike! How many miles do you have on it? What gear ratio did you choose?

    DRZ400 I am concerned that a 6A rating may mean 4A and waiting for a 70 Ah pack. So far the Kelly still looks best I guess.

    Steve
    2003 Ninja 250EX, Agni #95, 6:1 Gearing, (25) 40Ah Calib Lifepo4 cells
    On board charger, Mini-BMS, Kelly 400amp Controller, all LED lighting
    12' Yamaha FZ1, 06' XR650R SM, 71' DT250 Yamaha, 78' RD400 Yamaha
    http://www.evalbum.com/1955
    http://www.evalbum.com/3337

  7. #17
    EV Enthusiast BenNelson's Avatar
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    For anyone interested, my KZ440 uses a 14-tooth front sprocket and 72-tooth rear sprocket for 5.14:1 gear ratio. That means the top speed is pretty low (45mph on a 48V system) but I'm always in city 25 mph zones anyways.

    The gearing gives me pretty good acceleration and limits amp draw.

  8. #18
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    New tires arrived today! Nice thing about converting an old bike where many of the parts need replacement, you can put on what you want. I really like these Pirelli MT66's. Motor mount is out for fab, may see it tomorrow.

    I have 14:48 and 14:56 gearing available for a 3.43:1 and a 4:1 ratio...which one should I try first?

    Steve

  9. #19
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    Industrial Chain vs MC Chain?

    Why do all the shops sell industrial roller chain rather than motorcycle chain? I've ridden chain ICE bikes for many years and maintain (clean/lube) my chains every 500 miles. A good chain doesn't stretch as quickly, rides quieter and is better protected from road crap.

    What is the benefit of using the industrial chains...cost...smaller sizes?


    I am sure this has been discussed before and I missed it...sorry if this is a repeat.

    Steve

  10. #20
    Old EV Racer EVcycle's Avatar
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    Looks to be a good project. That motor will give you gobs of torque.
    All of the bikes we built were a cantilever mount and the same motor.

    Please keep us posted!
    Last edited by EVcycle; 24 February 2012 at 0440.
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