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Thread: Honda CBR 150 conversion

              
   
   
  1. #1
    Junior Member shaunmza's Avatar
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    Honda CBR 150 conversion

    ok, so ....

    Things I know;
    Donor: Honda CBR 150 (Nothing wrong with it but its mine and paid for)
    Motor : Enertrac 602

    Things I don't know;
    everything else

    I am aiming to have something for track days, perhaps performance similar to a single cylinder (500cc's, used to be a singles race series but no more)

    5 sessions (max) a day, of 15 mins each, around a 2.5 KM track with 45 mins between sessions

    power available at the track so can charge whilst waiting for the next session

    Top speed : dunno range about 100KM?


    Plan of action is to remove fairings and all parts I wont need, then see how many batteries I can fit in, was thinking LiPo, but prob go for LiFePo4
    Also plan a place for controller
    Chargers will be separate as bike is tiny and want all available space for batteries!! Hence firm choice on hub motor

    Am going to need advice as I am not understanding a lot of what is being discussed, despite lurking for months

    Pictures, I LOOOOVVVEE pictures, so here you go

    SIDE.jpgTOP.jpg

  2. #2
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    At first I thought the 150 was a mis-print. But a quick google search showed me I was just an ignorant american. ; )

    I think that is a really good bike for a super-light track day bike. And your choice of motor for the project is pretty spot on. I originally thought a single Agni would be the ticket, but the enertrac seems like the ticket. Where it is a track bike and not doing the long haul Lipo would work, but I would still use a Monzanita's BMS. I would talk to Enertrac about what you want for top speed and a recommended controller (probably Kelly).

    I think you are going to want atleast a 96v pack (but more likely way more than that). If you plug the bike in as soon as you get back after a session you are looking at an extra 2+ hrs of charging which helps keep the pack small.

    How many laps do you see yourself doing in a 15 minute session? Is 100kph enough of a top speed for this course? For comparison last years eCRP and Mavizen race bikes carried 7.5kWhr packs for a 25 mile (40k) race. But that was quickly shortened to 20 miles (32k). Actually data from the race bike Enertrac is sponcering/helping would probably be helpful in gauging pack size.

    I don't see you being able to do all 5 sessions, or even 4 without a second pack. So you may want to think about making removable packs. The more I think about it the batter Lipo looks.

    I hope this is of some help,
    Rich

  3. #3
    Junior Member shaunmza's Avatar
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    Not ignorant I don't think

    The bike is made in Malaysia and I doubt if its exported (maybe I am ignorant?) Only reason its in SA is because its a grey import

    Number of laps would be 10 maximum per session, but most likely 6-7. Track is 2.5Km, and now on an R6 ICE I manage 1:40 or thereabouts, so I am by no means a fast rider. Quick guys get 1:09's on 1000cc bikes

    Would be nice if I could complete 5 sessions, but realise it may not be possible, would like to use this bike as a test bed, sort out electronics and all that stuff that I am not really comfortable with.

    Long term goal is to fabricate a custom built chassis so that I don't need to work in the constraints of an existing chassis designed for and engine.

    Was looking at Thundersky for batteries, but doubt if I am going to fit 24 in the chassis, nevermind the 30 needed for 96V (3.2 * 30 = 96, thats how its calculated right?)

  4. #4
    Senior Member SplinterOz's Avatar
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    For a light battery pack construction technique have a look at what the Ripperton bike has done... have a look around this build http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...-41173p17.html
    SplinterOz
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  5. #5
    teddillard
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    Welcome! I had to google the bike too... cool! It's always great to see what's available in other markets. My son just got back from a year in Japan, with loads of photos of bikes we just don't see here...

    The first stop I'd suggest is the Elmoto data sheet, here: http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php...2.0-Data-sheet
    It's been put together based on the basic gold standard sheet, but then updated by some of the folks here who REALLY know what they're doing, so they made the best better.

    If you truly do get boggled by all the information, may I suggest my book... linked in my sig. I put it together while I did exactly what you're trying to do- sort it all out - and tried to put a foundation of information out there so what you read here would make some more sense, and you could make some good decisions for the build that you want.

    It's great to have your goals so focused, but leave yourself some wiggle room... if there's one thing I learned, it's that old saw about theory and practice- "In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is." (Even better- "Well, it may be all right in practice, but it will never work in theory.") I learned more slapping together Sparky (my lead-powered hub motor BMX bike) than all the reading I'd done up until then, and it was short money.

    We've got the best group of the most knowledgeable people here... that is no idle boast. Check out their builds... there's some amazing stuff here. There are a couple of guys, RemoteContact, for one, who are running the Enertrac with Headways as well as LiPo, at higher voltages too, so hopefully they'll chime in with their experience. Mark, the man behind Enertrac, is always on the group, and is happy to help with design ideas, if I may speak for him...

    On the choice of LiPo, by the way, that's a great choice... in theory. Check out my progress on that, here: http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php...-%28The-R5e%29 and if you want some fun, go onto the YouTube and search "lipo fires"
    Last edited by teddillard; 05 July 2011 at 0300.

  6. #6
    Junior Member shaunmza's Avatar
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    Yup got the chart,

    Nothing on Enertrac's site for the KW at specific rpm's though, will be emailing him to see if he has that info available ..... sometime anyway

    Have actually had a look at the book, I prefer things in print, but shipping (its ALWAYS the shipping!) makes it pricey

    Going to see how things are at the end of the month and will prob buy the downloadable version

    Love how you built the tank on your project!

    For the batts will prob go LiFeYPo4 getting turnigy's imported to SA at a reasonable price looks impossible. If I try order from Hobby King my the maximum number of batteries I can order is 11 at a time

  7. #7
    Junior Member shaunmza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SplinterOz View Post
    For a light battery pack construction technique have a look at what the Ripperton bike has done... have a look around this build http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...-41173p17.html
    Interesting thread, seems he does what he thinks regardless of what people say

    worked out well for him

    followed chris's build, spent the weekend checking here and at endless sphere, was deeply disappointed at his setbacks

    thanks for the link!

  8. #8
    Senior Member SplinterOz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaunmza View Post
    Interesting thread, seems he does what he thinks regardless of what people say

    worked out well for him

    followed chris's build, spent the weekend checking here and at endless sphere, was deeply disappointed at his setbacks

    thanks for the link!
    Chris's bike is being transported back to my place today... I will be pulling it apart ready for some new motors. With Chris we are going to do some more work trying to balance the Angi's and maybe fitting twin conrollers.
    SplinterOz
    From Australia'a Capital
    http://rgelectric.wordpress.com/

  9. #9
    Member Barron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SplinterOz View Post
    With Chris we are going to do some more work trying to balance the Angi's and maybe fitting twin conrollers.
    I've no idea how other teams are reliably using a single controller. All it would take is a bad motor connection to dump all power into the other one and destroy it. Or if one motor fails open there's a good chance the other one would be taken out by overcurrent.

    If funds are tight for twin controllers, I'd suggest at least putting a fuse between each motor and the controller to provide some protection against further destruction.

    Also, was each motor being monitored for brush temperature? If not, probably should be at those power levels.
    Last edited by Barron; 05 July 2011 at 2012.

  10. #10
    Senior Member SplinterOz's Avatar
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    Barron thanks for the input... once I have the bike I will start a new thread.

    Sorry for the hi-jack.
    SplinterOz
    From Australia'a Capital
    http://rgelectric.wordpress.com/

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