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Thread: Nutshock V2.0 - Electric R6 Build

              
   
   
  1. #1
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    Nutshock V2.0 - Electric R6 Build

    Hey folks,

    It's time to start sharing go around number 2. I am upgrading my first chassis, a 1989 Suzuki Katana 600, to a newer sportbike, a 2003 Yamaha R6. The R6 offers me a better handling and, for me, more comfortable ride. The Katana was old and the suspension, tires and other parts were going bad. So i decided to upgrade instead of bothering to fix up and old bike. I rode the R6 for 3 months and tore it apart last week (see next posts).

    Taking all the electric bits from the Katana and adding some new parts should make this build relatively simple. My biggest task is to design and build the battery mount. I ordered the metal yesterday and refining my design. This will be made out of 6061 aluminum, more info too come.

    Design goals;
    100 mile range (@55mph)
    < 360lbs
    Storage for a backpack and more

    Parts list;
    Motor - Agni 95R
    Controller - Alltrax 7245
    Batteries - 110 EIG 20Ah cells (8.2kWh)
    DC/DC - Vicor 150W, 100V to 12Vunit

    Here's a look at the layout




    Motor will be mounted higher to line up the chain. Controller will most likely be mounted behind the motor on the right side of the bike.
    Last edited by Nuts & Volts; 23 December 2011 at 1635.
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  2. #2
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    R6 Teardown

    Started tearing down the R6 chassis. Started with the front end; fairing, windscreen, dash, wiring, and fairing stay. Then went to the tail removing the fairing, taillight, seats, ECU tray and wiring. After removing the tank I was able to drain the gas, oil and coolant lines. Radiator and exhaust were removed as well. Only thing left to do is pop off the chain and drop the engine. Everything came off pretty well. Only thing I had issues with was removing the clutch lever and linkage. I figured it out, but ended up having to drill out one bolt. Otherwise a painless process

    Here are some pictures of the process...



    Not going to lie I really enjoy cranking away at this thing. Getting dirty, finding the right tool, using the the wrong tool, its all part of the experience. Oh and just got an early Christmas present...a front stand. This will help me out a ton when working with this bike and future bikes

    Last edited by Nuts & Volts; 23 December 2011 at 1645.
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  3. #3
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    Mount design

    I have been working on the battery box design in CAD for a few weeks now. I will be using 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angled 6061 Aluminum pieces for the outer frame and 1/8" x 3/4" pieces for reinforce/triangulate the boxes. I am going to cut and tack these pieces together and have a friend of my dad's finish off the welds. 1/4" alum will be used at the frame attachment points to help handle shear stresses at those points (6 of them, not CAD'd). Their are still some pieces missing from the CAD, but these pictures give you an idea of the design an layout. 90% of the added weight will be less than 25" off the ground and 50 degree of lean is still possible with this setup (~5-6" of ground clearance).

    The motor mount will be a machined piece of 1/4" 6061 Alum. I decided to mount to the outer motor holes because this will lower the counter force created by the motor torque and the more attachment points will help carry the load. The outer holes also move the motor 15mm so that the weight is more centered on the mount in order to reduce the twisting forces on the mount. The motor mount will also tie into the front battery box and will be support on the backside as well (not CAD'd). Total mounting material will be about 15lbs for all the components.

    Thoughts, questions?? enjoy







    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

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    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    I have been finding a little bit of time between classes, work and the OSU team to work on the R6 design.

    Biggest thing is that I have been able to source 18 more EIG cells for a good price. These don't come with the nice mounting, but it gives me a chance to do some design more. Pack will now be 21s6p or roughly 9.2-9.5kWh total instead of 22s5p 8.2kWh. This will add about 25lbs so R6 will be about 375-390lbs now, but will a pack capable of 70-90kW peak, less voltage sag (ie more energy), and more range. It also made packaging a little more straightforward, but still tricky. Here is where I am at now.




    3 rows of 42 cells on right under the motor with 8in of ground clearance as I learned I had way too much weight down low. The wheel clearance of 2" in the front is a little bit of a concern, but I believe I should be ok for most riding. It will just make contact if I bottom the forks out with 4.7in of travel depending on some pack design. If this becomes a problem I will mod the swingarm like Rippertonl to push the motor back 1-3" and the batteries will move too. The lower pack will bolt into the motor mount, the original engine mounts and the top battery. The top pack will have two stack of 42 cells and will attached to the upper portion of the motor mount, the original engine mounts on the sides of the machine and maybe somewhere upfront on the frame.

    Motor mount is also done, but don't have any pictures yet. I am hoping to practice some welding this weekend along with cutting the rest of the metal for the battery boxes. Working on a wiring diagram this week. Hacking Noah's diagram to create my own, thanks buddy!

    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  5. #5
    Seņor Member podolefsky's Avatar
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    Dude - those CAD drawings look great. I wish I had solidworks (and CAD skills).

    Nice chassis too. Can't wait to see it come together.
    - Noah Podolefsky -
    The GSX-E

  6. #6
    Senior Member Coninsan's Avatar
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    Sweet Solidworks job

    Can't wait to see the CAD in solid metal and the R6 on the road.
    "I reject your reality and substitute my own." Adam Savage

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    Senior Member yankee1919's Avatar
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    Nuts and Volts,

    Top notch design! I have a question- did know what was the frame weight minus electrics? I wanted to see what the weight comparison was from gas engine vs electric motor and batteries.

    Looking good
    Tony
    Los Angeles

  8. #8
    Senior Member moon's Avatar
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    Awesome modeling job.

    Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk
    Chris

    1996 Nonda CBR600F3 conversion
    1980 Honda CB750/900/1100F Franken-ICE

  9. #9
    Moderator Nuts & Volts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yankee1919 View Post
    Nuts and Volts,

    Top notch design! I have a question- did know what was the frame weight minus electrics? I wanted to see what the weight comparison was from gas engine vs electric motor and batteries.

    Looking good
    Tony
    Los Angeles
    Oh do I have the weights Here is a screenshot of things that came off of my motorcycle. I missed a few things like coolant weight. I can also put up weights for various parts that will be staying on the chassis. Let me know.


    I will be adding about 208lbs in electric parts.
    Whats under my tank may shock you!!! R6 Build, Blog/, [/URL] OSU Current webpage

  10. #10
    Senior Member yankee1919's Avatar
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    Nuts and Volts,

    Thank you for the info, I believe it is critical what is coming off and what is going in.

    Keep it coming.
    Tony

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